Exploring the Green Bazaar in Kutaisi

Kutaisi’s covered market, the Green Bazaar or Mtsvane Bazari, is where downtown dwellers in Georgia’s third-largest city go for all their grocery needs. It’s also a colourful place that gloriously rewards an hour of a traveller’s time.

If you want to visit–and it’s only a few steps from the Colchis Fountain–it’s worth walking around to Paliashvili Alley and approaching it from the west entrance so that you can appreciate the relief sculpture on the west door.

The relief is made from terra cotta. The internet tells me that the sculptor was Bernard Nebieridze and he finished it in 1987.
Relief sculpture on the wall of the Green Bazaar in Kutaisi, Georgia, featuring workmen, men's faces, and a devil (?).
Relief sculpture on the wall of the Green Bazaar in Kutaisi, Georgia.
Relief sculpture of standing figures and grape vines on the wall of the Green Bazaar in Kutaisi, Georgia.

Inside, you’ll find all the ingredients for a Georgian feast, and much more.

Vendor of spices and churchkhela, Green Bazaar
Spices!
Spice vendor, Green Bazaar, Kutaisi
Dried mushrooms! Nuts! Spices! Unexplained (alcoholic?) liquids in reused plastic water bottles!

Vendors of similar products cluster together. There’s an aisle of flour vendors, and aisle of potatoes, and aisle of nuts, an aisle of cheese, several aisles of fruit and vegetables, and an aisle of inexpensive and second hand clothing.

Flour vendors, Green Bazaar, Kutaisi
The aisle of flour.
A haunch of beef on a handcart pushed through the Green Bazaar, Kutaisi
A haunch of beef trundles past a seller of pickled things.
Vendor of churchkhela, Green Bazaar, Kutaisi
Churchkhela, a Georgian delicacy made from strings of walnuts dipped in boiling grape juice thickened with flour.

I bought some churchkhela here. It keeps well at all temperatures and makes an excellent trail snack.

Outside the market building, I discovered a row of used booksellers’ stalls along Shota Rustaveli Avenue.

Used bookseller, Kutaisi
The books are primarily in Georgian and Russian, but there were a selection of English, French and German titles as well.
Cover of Data Tutashkhia.
Here’s Data Tutashkhia by Chabua Amirejibi, a Georgian classic about a Robin Hood-like highwayman.
Bottle of wine shaped like Data Tutashkhia.
Down in the touristy shops of the Old Town, you can also buy a bottle of wine shaped like Data Tutashkhia.

After my ramble through the covered market, I stopped in Kutaisi Park to enjoy my first taste of churchkhela. This is a very pleasant public space on a hot afternoon.

Kutaisi Park

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